DEAR TORRIE: You’re not alone; many people find it difficult decorating their own home, especially when moving things from one house to another. “Why don’t my things fit the same way?” “I bought this specifically for the family room in my other house; I can’t use it in the living room.” “It just has to go in this room because it always has.”

So where do you start? You need to accept that this house is different. Accept that each room is laid out differently. You might have more or less windows, more open space versus individual rooms, more or less rooms, or maybe you now have a two-story versus a single-story home. I know this sounds like common sense, but it’s the reason why things don’t fit the same way.

Now grab a friend who can help you, or hire someone who will have a fresh perspective. Start by determining the function of each room, besides your kitchen, that’s obvious. Who says that the living room can’t be your family room? Maybe in this house the living room is bigger and will be a better place to watch TV. I’ve done this many times.

Nothing says that just because a room was labeled one thing on the floor plan it has to be used in that way. In my house, the once-formal dining room is where our birds are. I don’t think you’ll see a room specifically noted as a bird’s room on any floor plan. Yes, we could have put them in a spare bedroom, but then they’re not part of our daily activities. It’s important that they have visual stimulation and can see us throughout the day.

Next, don’t get hung up on what rooms you had your furniture and artwork in before. Or what pieces you had together. Sofas and tables can be switched between rooms. The only thing you need to be concerned about is the durability of the items. A silk sofa wouldn’t be the best option in a well-used family room. But maybe because of the size of the room and how you’re arranging the furniture, the living room side tables really fit better in the family room. Just because you had a console table behind your sofa, doesn’t mean it can’t go in your guest room as an accent piece.

Think of every piece in a different way. Ask yourself, how else can it be used and where? Of course, buying new furniture to fit in your new home is an option; it’s not always in the budget. So use what you have first. As Tim Gunn from “Project Runway” says, “Make it work.”

I find artwork can be a troublesome item when moving to another house. The wall space can be so different because of window placement and doorways. Homeowners really struggle with this one.

“I had that piece over my sofa in my last house, but the only place I can put my sofa now is under the windows. What am I going to do with it now?”

So I always like to start with pieces that absolutely must be hung at that moment. If there’s room for all of them that’s great, but many times there’s not. But don’t despair as you can always switch things out every six months or once a year. Start with the biggest pieces, then add in the rest. If you had a lot of smaller pieces throughout your last house, is there a place you can create a wall gallery?

What I really want to stress is to think out of the box. By doing this and getting a little help from someone else, you’ll have your home set up and enjoying it in no time.

DEAR ROSEMARIE: Sleep deprivation is not good and studies have shown that it is the cause of many accidents as well as a list of health problems. So let’s get you some options and some sleep.

The easiest, if you have a deep window frame, is to add a black-out roller shade behind your existing shade. When the roller shade is pulled up it will be hidden behind your shade headrail.

Another option is to use drapery panels with a blackout liner. To make sure you get the full benefit of them, you should mount them from floor-to-ceiling and at least 12 inches out from each side of the window; this will block any light from coming in. If you are able to go wall-to-wall, that’s even better. Something you do need to consider is how much wall space your draperies will need to clear your window when you want to let light in. This is called stack-back or how much wall space the panels will take up when fully opened. There are a couple of things that affect the stack-back, including how heavy and thick your panels are and how full you make them. The fuller and heavier the fabric, the more wall space they’ll take up when opened.

Understanding stack-back is important since I’m assuming you want to keep as much of your view into the yard. Without getting complicated with calculations you can figure stack-back this way. Take one drapery panel that you’re considering and gather it together. This will give you a good estimate on how much wall space it’s going to take up when you open the draperies. Let’s say you have a 54-inch wide panel and it gathers down to 25 inches. To have it completely stack off your window, you would want to place the drapery rod 25 inches from the edge of the window. This also allows you a little room if you’d like to cover the edge of the window frame. I normally like to cover at least 3 inches of the window frame.

If you don’t want all that fabric on your walls, you can use a blackout Roman shade. You’ll want to mount it the same distance around the window as the panels. The difference is that you’ll be able to pull the shade up off the window. But in this case you’ll need to consider how much wall space above the window you need to stack it off the window when pulled up. If you have a lot of room above your window, you’ll probably have no problem clearing it.

I do prefer the look of the panels since they frame your window and you’re dividing the fabric. The Roman shade can look heavy with all of the fabric stacked in one place. You also have to worry about the weight of the fabric. You’ll need to make sure you use molly bolts or mount into your wood header when installing the shade.

You can also consider replacing the shade with a sun-up, sun-down shade, which is two shades on one headrail. Two fabrics are used, one between the top rail and the center rail and one between the center rail and bottom rail. When you want the light, you pull it so the sheer shade is covering your window. When you need to sleep, pull it so that the black-out shade is covering the window. The opposite shade will just be stacked either at the top or bottom of the shade taking up very little room.

Now on all the shade options you will get light seepage coming through the sides of the windows, but very little. You could mount the sun-up, sun-down shade on the outside of your window, but I don’t recommend it. I personally don’t like the look, and the shade is heavy. More than once an outside-mounted shade has pulled out of the window frame because of the weight, and since there is nothing supporting that weight.

A better option if you need total darkness, is to add stationary panels on each side of the window covering the edges. I would go 3-6 inches into the window to block out the light.

A more expensive option, but one that will completely block out any light is metal rolling shutters . I have them in my home and I can tell you I have no idea what time of day it is when I wake up. This is good and bad because on the weekend I do oversleep sometimes.

I hope one of these will work for you, and sleep well.

DEAR ROGER AND ANN: Fifteen-hundred dollars gives you a little to work with, so that’s good. I’m assuming you’re looking at the main rooms in your home, versus extra bedrooms, so I’ll focus my suggestions there.

In my opinion, the three main things that can update a home are: lighting, faucets and hardware.

Do you have an outdated brass entry, kitchen or dining room chandelier? You can buy a new one for between $100 and $250 or even paint the one you have. The color depends upon your décor. Don’t be afraid to go for color if your style is contemporary. If color scares you, black always works. A red chandelier could look great in a country kitchen. Remember it’s just paint and anything is better than the brass fixture the builder put in.

If you have the old Hollywood light bars in your bathrooms, I’d spend money there and get rid of them. There are a lot of light bars for less than $200. If your light is OK, you can change it up with paint or new glass shades.

A fun trick to try, which won’t cost a penny, is to flip the light. If your shades currently go down, flip them so they go up or vice versa. I do this a lot. Just because they show it on display with the shades down doesn’t mean it can’t be installed the other way. This works with 95 percent of bath light bars.

So are you still living with acrylic-handle faucets in your bathrooms? Even if you have an older sink and counter that are in good condition, just updating your faucet will make all the difference in the world. You can purchase a simple new faucet for less than $50. You don’t have to change out the shower and tub fixtures if you’re staying within the same finish. So if your shower is chrome, it’s OK to use a brushed or stained nickel. If you have brass in the shower and go with a nickel, I would change both out at the same time.

The same goes for your kitchen faucet; spend the money and update to a newer style. If your sink has seen better days, you can find ones for less than $150.

Now onto hardware. The first impression makes all the difference so look into new front door hardware, which you can find for less than $75. While at the front door, give it a fresh coat of paint or, if it’s wood and our lovely heat has gotten to it, refinish it. I’d also take a look at your porch light. Stand at your door and look at your porch as if it’s the first time you’ve seen it.

Changing out your interior door handles will be expensive and eat up most of your budget. So if they look good, just give them a good polish.

I’ve mentioned many times how hardware can really update older cabinets, but it can get pricey in a kitchen depending upon the number of cabinets you have. So spend some time online searching out good deals; they are out there.

Now for a couple of decorative ideas. New table lamps can make a big difference in updating the look of a room. Gone are the oversized lamps with the bell shades that are wider than the tables they sit on. You can get nice new table lamps for less than $50 at any of the home stores. If your bases are nice, look for a new shade, which you also can find easily for less than $50.

Next, what items do you have that you can paint? Outdated drapery rods can be transformed with simple spray paint. Have a nice rod but simple finials? Change them out. There are a lot of great finials for less than $100 a pair.

Another easy item to paint is wall shelves. Give your wood shelves a punch of color. What color? Look at the colors that you have in your fabrics and artwork.

What about painting your kitchen chairs? Or even just the backs. How about the legs on the table? I personally love two-tone furniture.

And finally don’t be afraid to add some color on the walls. Paint a room or two or at least add some accent walls.

DEAR BECKY: Just so you know, you are not alone. Besides selecting paint colors, accessorizing seems to be the most frustrating area for most homeowners. Accessories are the finishing touches that make your home personal and bring each room together, just as jewelry shows your personality and dresses up your wardrobe. They both complete and complement your foundation.

Accessorizing is about fussing with things until they feel right, which I know is where you’re frustrated. To help you, I’m going to give you some sets to follow. Once you have them down, you’ll be able to change your items out when you want a new look.

To start, clear off your coffee table, it’s important to start with a blank canvas.

Next, gather up the accessories that you’d like to use, knowing you’re not going to use all of them. Group them by type, just like you see in the store: candles, vases, figurines, greenery, frames and so on.

What you’re going to do is form a triangular pattern that has three layers or heights, as well as a variety of textures and color. Although you can create a stunning grouping with all the same textures and colors, you still need to vary the heights.

Start with your tallest accessory and place it off center and to the back of the table, instead of right in the middle. You want to create a grouping versus lining them up.

Now select the next one you’d like to use. This piece should be smaller. Place it at the second point of the triangle.

Then select the third piece, which will be your smallest. Many times my third accessory is greenery to soften the grouping. If you have a large table or would like to use more than three things, place two more items into your triangular pattern. I do like using odd numbers, but nothing says you have to. It’s all about balance.

Once you’re comfortable creating groupings, do what looks and feels right.

If you need a starting point, take pictures at model homes or cut pictures out from magazines. Then re-create the look by selecting similar accessories from what you have.

I know this sounds simple, but it always isn’t when you start. So here are a couple things to watch for:

• Make sure nothing is too high and blocking your view to the television or chairs where guest may be sitting. You don’t want to have to look around candlesticks to watch television or chat.
• How does your grouping look from all angles? I don’t like using frames on a coffee table because you see the backs when sitting on the sofa. They are best placed on side tables or a console.
• Don’t overcrowd the table. This is sometimes where people go astray and it ends up looking like a sale table. Add one piece at a time and when it looks too crowded take the last one off.
• Are the accessories visually too heavy, too light, too large or too small for the table? You especially need to watch this when you have a small, delicate glass table. But on the same token a large wood table should have substantial pieces.
• Keep the theme the same. I wouldn’t place a rustic candlestick and a country goose together with an Oriental vase. Instead use a brass candlestick and a swan figurine with the vase. Each item does not have to be Oriental but they should have the same feel.
• Have you added color? It can be as simple as color from candles, decorative balls, potpourri, flowers or even books.

Accessorizing really is the fun part and makes all the difference in a well-made room. So jump in and try a couple of different arrangements until you find the one you like.

BEFORE – The homeowner was stumped about what to do with her glass top table because of the rattan shelf, so didn’t use anything.

AFTER – Simple accessories — books and greenery — were placed on the lower rattan shelf. The addition of the flower on the glass top helped balance out the color from her sofa.

DEAR ROSE MARIE: A quick, easy and no cost way to give your room a new look is simply using what you already own. It’s what we in the industry call interior redesign. In just one day and with a little bit of work you can have a completely new room.

Where you start is by completely emptying the room. I know this is a lot of work but it is essential in getting a new look. It’s hard to see how a room can look different with everything where it currently is. Just like an artist, you need to start with a blank canvas.

So first remove your accessories, lamps, plants and then your artwork. Place them where they will be out of the way. Put breakables on the kitchen counter or dining table and lamps on the floor, along a wall so you don’t trip on them. Keep like items grouped together, just how it’s done in the stores. Place artwork by size and try not to lay them in front of each other. The best place to put them is either down the hall or in another room.

Now it’s time to move your furniture. Try to get everything completely out of the room. If not, move it as far out as you can. Be very careful not to hurt yourself; this is not a one-person project. I use carpet installers’ moving glides, but even the little moving discs are helpful for those heavy items. With the room completely emptied, it’s OK to take a short break, but remember everything needs to go back in. You can figure spending about four to six hours for an average-sized family room.

Your next step is to stand in the middle of the room and take notice of the lines in the room. This is easiest to do by looking down at the floor and baseboards. Do you have any angled walls, floor tiles set on a diagonal, or does your carpet and tile meet on a diagonal? Always work with the angles in the room versus against them. Don’t be afraid to place your furniture on an angle. It’s what will give your room a new look and one that is more interesting than before.

Do you have any architectural focal points like a fireplace, great view, built-in bookcase or entertainment unit? Of course, in the family room the television is the primary focal point. Watching television is the main function of the room. It’s important to identify your primary focal point as the next step is to place your furniture.

Start with your sofa and place it addressing the television. What I mean by addressing is that when you are sitting on the sofa, the television is in your line of sight. The sofa does not have to be directly across from the television; it could be on an angle to it, but it shouldn’t be at a right angle. You don’t want to have to turn your head completely to the side to watch television; it’s just not comfortable.

Once your sofa is placed, is there another important focal point in the room you want to see while sitting on the sofa. If you can’t see it, try placing your sofa in different positions until you can see both. Or are you OK if you can see it from another piece of furniture? So, next place your love seat or chair at a right angle to the sofa. If you have a third chair, place it on a diagonal across from this grouping to balance your furniture arrangement in the room. If you don’t have another chair, take one from another room that you’re not using.

Now it’s time to bring back your lighting. A trick to lighting your room is to place your lamps in a diagonal, or preferable, triangular pattern. This ensures that you won’t have any dark corners. Place your trees and floor plants next. If there is a plug nearby, accent them with a floor uplight.

The next step is artwork. You want your artwork to relate to the items around it. Don’t just have it floating on the wall. It’s always best to anchor it to the floor with a piece of furniture or floor plant. A very large piece without something underneath it will give you an uneasy feeling. The bottoms of the artwork should be level with the floor or the piece you’re hanging it over. Only stagger artwork up a staircase.

Try not to place the same pieces of artwork in the same places. This is one thing that will give your room a new look. Just because it was over the sofa before doesn’t mean that’s where it has to go again.

The final and finishing touches are your accessories. Start with the focal areas in your room, normally the coffee table and mantel. The rule of odd numbers and asymmetrical arrangements always work; they are more interesting and pleasing to the eye. Just like with your art, switch things around. It’s been proven that after 27 days we no longer take notice to the things around us. If you are uncomfortable with accessorizing, look in model homes and magazines for placement ideas to follow.

As with all decorating, it’s about balance, proportion and simply how the room feels. If something just doesn’t feel right, it’s probably not properly placed. So move it around until it does. That’s the beauty of interior redesign. Follow your instincts and with these simple steps you’ll be surprised and amazed how different your room will look without spending a dime.

Photo by Timothy Kolk

The joy of purchasing a new piece of art can quickly turn to stress when it comes time to hang it. How high should it be mounted on the wall? How can it be arranged with other pieces to create an inspired statement? And, crucially, how can you be sure it’s safe and secure and won’t end up crashing to the floor?

To help answer these questions, we turned to David Kassel, the founder of ILevel, a New York–based professional art placement and installation service that counts Albert Hadley, Bunny Williams, and Victoria Hagan among its many clients.

Hanging Basics
First, Kassel discussed the nuts and bolts of hanging art securely. Contrary to popular belief, he says you needn’t hammer nails into studs, nor install hefty drywall anchors to support art. Here’s how he does it:

• Use picture-hanging hooks, rather than heavy nails or screws. Although they may seem dainty, they are very secure. “It’s all based on shear weight,” says Kassel. “The picture hooks go into the wall on an angle, like a cat’s claw—it’s a whole different set of physics.”

• Buy the right type of hook for your artwork’s weight. “There are basically three types,” says Kassel. “A one-nail picture hook holds things that are 30 pounds or lighter. A two-nail picture hook holds pieces that are about 50 pounds. A three-nail picture hook holds pieces that are about 75 to 100 pounds.

• Use two picture hooks per artwork. Not only does this provide added security but it helps art remain level over time, compared to items hung from a single point.

• When possible, install two D-rings, rather than a wire, on the backs of frames, to hang from the picture hooks. “Then it’s stationary, and not swinging on a wire,” says Kassel. “There’s no pendulum effect involved.”

• Use a level and ruler to ensure that both the picture hooks and D-rings are aligned when installed.

Stylish Arrangements
When you’re ready to hang the art, the next step is choosing where each piece should reside. Again, Kassel has a few helpful rules of thumb:

• Recruit a helper who can hold pieces against the wall before you begin hammering in the picture hooks. “Then you can take a step back to see what the space is going to look like with the piece there,” says Kassel. “You get a sense of the proportions and colors, and see it against all the other design elements.”

• When hanging a single piece on a wall, the center of the picture should be about 60 inches off the ground, which places it at eye level.

• When hanging a pair of works, one above the other, treat them as one large picture (whether they’re the same or different sizes). Find the center point between them, and use the same 60-inch rule.

• For spacing between art on the same wall, “Generally, we’ll use two inches between larger pictures,” says Kassel. “If they’re all smaller family photos, we might use an inch and a half between them.” That goes for the spacing above, below, and on either side of each frame.

• When arranging multiple pieces, don’t just think in terms of a grid. “What’s really becoming popular are salon installations—a group of often disparate images or frames,” clustered together, says Kassel, who notes that such installations often stretch from wall to wall and floor to ceiling. “There’s no right or wrong way to do it,” he says. “We just start in the middle and work our way out. It’s something you feel proportionally, or you can decide based on whether Aunt Rose should be next to Uncle Jim.”

Kassel says the most important tip is to have fun when hanging art, and not to worry too much about getting things perfect. “You’re not doing anything structural to your walls, and your house isn’t going to fall down if you don’t hang the pictures right,” he says. “If you hang something up and want to move it, it’s really easy to fix the problem,” with a little spackle. In fact, Kassel suggests changing displays of art every once in a while: “I think a lot of people like moving pictures around, just like they move furniture around to freshen things up.”

DEAR COLBY: I agree those upper cabinets need to go. That alone will update your kitchen.

So let’s look at where we can get you the storage you’ll be losing when you remove them, plus more. First, where can you relocate your old cabinets? Do you have room in the laundry room or garage? There’s no need to throw them away if they can be used. Take an inventory of the items you rarely use – those items that if stored somewhere else would not be an inconvenience to get, such as any large pans, pots, mixers, platters or a second set of dishes you only use on holidays. Place these in your old cabinets.

Next, let’s get rid of any dead space you have. Put lazy Susans in your corners. Doors here just create wasted space since you can’t get to what gets pushed back into the corner.

Replace any stationary shelves with pull-out shelves, especially in your pantry. And use full-extension slides on both the shelves and all your drawers. Full-extension slides will allow your shelves and drawers to open all the way giving you full access to their backs.

If your island is at least 36 inches deep, add cabinets on the breakfast bar side. If you use upper cabinets on both sides, since they are only 12 inches deep, you’ll still have 12 inches to sit at. To make them countertop height you just have to add a 6-inch base. It makes them the perfect height and gives you another place for rarely used items.

If you have a 48-inch-wide island, you can use drawers on your work side and cabinets on the breakfast bar side, which still gives you 12 inches to sit at.

Of course, if you have the space to add cabinets, now is the time to do so. When I remodeled my kitchen, I was able to place a second floor-to-ceiling cabinet next to my breakfast bar. It backs up to the end of my cabinets and faces my table area. It’s a perfect place for my extra dishes, linens and paper goods.

One of my favorite items to add are dishpan drawers. They are 7 inches deep and can be made 42 inches wide. I don’t suggest going any longer as the drawer can get heavy. They work much better for your pans and baking dishes than the door pull-out shelves.

Do you have the room for taller uppers? Standard height is 36 inches, but 42 inches won’t cost that much more. I’ve gone even higher by adding 12-inch cabinets above. Of course, this is not an area for everyday storage, but it’s perfect for your holiday items.

Now let’s look at getting you more countertop space. If your microwave is on the counter, move it off and up. I placed mine in a cabinet over my single oven. If you’re going to move it into a cabinet, make sure it’s not too high. I wouldn’t have the bottom any more than 53 inches off the floor. It’s not safe to pull out hot items higher that. If you have a regular stove hood, replace it with a microwave hood.

If you have the space, something else to consider is to make your countertops 30 inches deep versus the standard 24 inches. Even though your cabinets are only 24 inches deep, unless you have them custom made, all you need to do is bring them to the front of your counter. You’ll pay a little extra for your countertop, but it’s worth it.

Do you have the room to move your cabinets down any? Can you extend your island? It’s amazing what even an extra 12 inches can give you in work space.

I hope I’ve given you some ideas you’ll be able to incorporate into your kitchen. One thing I can’t stress enough is to take the extra time in planning. It’s not something you’ll probably do again, so a little extra time to plan and review is worth it. Have someone else look at your plan before you take a hammer to your kitchen or place any orders as it’s always more difficult to catch our own mistakes than someone else’s.

DEAR ROGER AND KIM: There are significant differences between wood and laminate. In making your decision you have to consider a couple of things.

First, do you have any pets that really like to run around the house? I’m mainly talking about dogs. Their nails will scratch a wood floor. Do you have a lot of bright sunlight that will be coming into the room where you’ll be putting the floor? Although neither is completely fade proof, direct sun will fade wood. With those considerations, let’s look at some other things to know when you’re comparing products.

There are three types of wood floors: acrylic impregnated wood, engineered wood and solid wood. With an acrylic impregnated wood, acrylics are injected into the wood, which creates a super hard and durable floor. Engineered wood consists of layers of hardwood, plywood or HDF (high density fiber) that are pressed together and glued, with a top layer of hardwood veneer. They run the grain in different directions, which gives it added stability. This added stability allows it to be used in moisture areas such as kitchens and bathrooms. Solid wood is just that, one piece of wood from top to bottom. It can be refinished, but has limitations as to where it can be installed due to moisture.

Laminate is typically made from HDF with a top photographic layer and then finished with a clear coating made from special resin-coated cellulose to protect the laminate flooring. With the advancements in computer-generated images, most times you can’t tell a laminate from a wood by just looking at it. But I’ve found that some laminates can be slippery and do not have as much sound absorption as wood. But they are generally the least expensive.

Now what about durability? For wood floors look for their Janka hardness rating. This lets you know how the product will withstand wearing and dents. It’s conducted by measuring the pounds force needed to lodge a .444 steel ball into the wood to a depth of half the ball’s diameter. The higher the number, the harder the species. A couple of examples: Brazilian cherry, teak and walnut and Santos mahogany have some of the highest numbers at more than 2,000; Douglas fir has one of the lowest at 600, and maple and oak fall in the middle. You can Google Janka for a complete list.

With laminate you want to look for its thickness and wear rating. The thickness of laminate ranges from 6 mm to 12 mm, with 12 mm being the most durable and therefore also the most expensive. Next is the AC (abrasion class) rating, which was established by the Association of European Producers of Laminate Flooring. Laminates go through a battery of tests for durability, staining, water absorption and burns. AC ratings range from AC1 to AC5, with AC5 being the most durable. Most laminates used in a residential application will have an AC3 rating.

Along with the AC rating, you also want to look for a laminate that has the NALFMA (North American Laminate Flooring Association) seal, which lets you know it has met performance standards.

Although this has nothing to do with which product to select, it’s very important to know. No matter the climate you live in, the material must be acclimated. This means you have to lay the boxes flat and open in the room where the material is going to be installed. This gets it used to the temperature and humidity in a home. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how long the wood or laminate must acclimate. I know we’re all anxious to get things done, but this is the time to be patient.

I hope this little FYI lesson helps in making your decision.

DEAR GAIL: I just moved into a new home and have no idea how to hang my artwork. I bought everything to fit in specific places in my last house and now nothing works. Where do I start? — Lynn Ann

DEAR LYNN ANN: This is a question I get a lot. It’s sometimes hard setting up a new home when the architectural is different.

I want you to think out of the box and that you’re not going to hang your artwork the same way or in the same places as you had before. To start, I want you to separate your art into groups based upon the theme of the art, and then by size, not what room you had it in before.

To get your creative juices going, I’m going to show you a couple of different ideas to hang artwork. And for those of you who have been in your home for years, maybe it’s time to switch things up.

When you have multiple pieces, look to create wall galleries. All the frames do not need to match; they just need to coordinate. When laying out a wall gallery, think of it as a jigsaw puzzle. You start by finding the corner pieces and then fill in the rest.

For example, in the gallery hanging over the table , I started by placing the two largest pieces diagonal from each other and then filled in with the smaller pieces. I kept it balanced by using both medium and small sizes in each opposite corner.

The gallery over the sofa was created with multiple sizes as well as shelves and accessories. I started with the largest piece, then added shelves and filled in with the rest.

Photo by GMJ Interiors

Look beyond the idea that the pieces have to be identical. Find those that are similar in size and copy the layout.

When you have a lot of small pieces, use them to create chair rails and columns. Look at your architecture and follow what is already there, such as having the pieces stack up a fireplace flue.

Photo by Prost Photo

Photo by GM Interiors

When hanging art this way, it works best if all the pieces are the same size and framed the same. The bathroom is a great example of how a chair rail was created by using vacation pictures.

When working with more than two pieces, remember the frames do not need to match. What’s important is that when you’re stacking pieces, the bottom piece should be the largest or the visually heaviest. In this grouping a square was created with three very different sizes of art.

Photo by GMJ Interiors

When going up a staircase, the bottoms of the art should step up with each step. Staircases are not my first choice as a place for family pictures, but if you hang them low enough, it works.

You can create a geometrical pattern for a striking focal point over a bed with four pieces of canvas and black velvet ribbon, created by www.ReDazzle Design.com

Photo by ReDazzle Design

Lynn Ann, I hope this has given you some ideas to get your artwork up off the floor and onto your walls.

Illustration by Tricia of Trillustrations

The new year is upon us, and I’m sure we’re all thinking about what resolutions we’re going to make, and then probably not keep. There’s something about the word resolution that I have come to dislike. Instead I like steps. “This year, these are the steps I’m going to take to…”

To me, resolutions are a set up for failure, because it’s an all or nothing thing. We all have good intentions, but days turn into weeks, weeks into months, and months into the next year. Whereas, by taking projects a step at a time, step-by-step they will get done. So here are my seven steps to help you work through your decorating projects in 2011.

Step 1: Realize that nothing big gets completed in one day, but in many steps, sometimes hundreds.

Step 2: Remain flexible and expect that your plans can and most likely will change. Life happens. Take a deep breathe, take care of what must be done and then go back to what you were working on.

Step 3: Make a list of all the projects you’d like to work on this year. Make a file folder for each project – paint, kitchen, garage and so on. Place the folders in the order you want to get the projects done. Put the number one folder on your desk and file the rest of them away.

Step 4: Write down all of the things you need to do to get this project done. Don’t worry about the order at this time. Be detailed in your list. If you want to paint the kitchen, don’t just write paint kitchen. You need to pick the color, buy supplies and do the prep work: Wipe down the walls, tape, remove switch plates, remove artwork, move furnishings, etc. Or, if you’re not doing the work yourself, get quotes from painters, call references, check on their licensing, etc. Now put them in order.

Step 5: Next to each step, write down how much it will cost to complete that step. If you have the funds to complete step 1, then, as Larry the Cable Guy says, “Git-R-Done.”

But whether you have the funds or not, I suggest setting up a decorating fund account. For those of us who are old enough, remember the passbook Christmas Club we had as kids. We put in a couple of dollars a month and then we had our own money to buy gifts.

Now if you don’t have the money to start or complete the steps, here are a couple of ways to save the extra money without taking it from your house account. Instead of taking rewards miles on your credit cards, take the cash back. I get at least $100 a month and automatically transfer it to a separate account.

If you haven’t used grocery coupons, start. I bet you’ll save at least $25 a month. Sign up for all of the free rewards programs offered. If you use your Smith’s rewards card at Shell, you save 10 cents a gallon. Put what you’ve saved into your decorating fund.

If you’ve found something for less online, bank the savings. And of course bring your lunch and coffee to work. If not every day, how about two days a week. It’s amazing how quickly the money will add up.

Step 6: You have your list. You know what each step is going to cost. So simply take it step-by-step until the project is completed. Do not jump into any of your other project folders otherwise you may find yourself back at this time next year and have nothing completed. I know it’s hard, but there’s nothing better than the feeling of accomplishment.

Step 7: Go into your file and pull out project folder No. 2 and start over at step 1.

Visit Tricia’s web site for some fun illustrations.  She’ll custom color any of her images for no charge.